Prague Blogue: Museums And The Prague Zoo

The Lobkowicz Museum occupies a corner of the Prague Castle.  Fritz and I ducked into the museum when it started to rain, and it turned out to be a fascinating detour.  We were given an interesting history of Prague as we strolled through the galleries of paintings and artwork.  

Lobkowicz Palace was built in the second half of the 16th century which means it has witnessed some of Prague's most significant historical events.  One of the more miraculous facts about the Lobkowicz collection is that all of the art was lost and subsequently recollected not once, but twice.  The Nazis confiscated the palace and all of its artwork during WWII and the Lobkowicz family fled to the US.  The Palace was returned in 1945 only to be seized again in 1948 after the Communist takeover.  

In addition to a plentiful number of paintings, the museum also houses an extensive collection of antique musical instruments and the original scores for some of the most influential classical music.  Handel, Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven all composed works in Prague during the 18th and 19th century.  The 7th Prince Lobkowicz had a tremendous impact on classical music as he provided Beethoven with a generous annual stipend.  This patronage allowed Beethoven the freedom to compose without dependence on commissions or other time-consuming obligations to support his work.  As a result, Beethoven composed some of his most famous works in Prague.   The score in the picture above is Beethoven's Symphony in B, the 4th which premiered in March 1807 at the Vienna palace of the 7th Prince Lobkowicz.  Clearly it pays to fund the arts.  Where would we be without Beethoven?  From now on, anytime I hear that another school district is cutting funding to their arts department, I'm going to think fondly of Prince Lobkowicz, send my gratitude to the past, and pray for more wisdom in the future. 

The Prague Jewish Museum is actually a series of buildings and historical sites scattered throughout the Jewish Quarter.  It contains a history of the Jewish community in the region as well as some of the Jewish relics and art produced in Prague over the centuries.  

The museum took us on a path that wove through a beautiful Jewish cemetery. 

Stones and shells have been left on the headstones as a sign of remembrance. 

We were fortunate to have 5 days in Prague which allowed us to get out of the touristy center and hit some less-visited spots, like the Prague National Gallery.

Double exposure art

The modern building was, in many ways, its own form of artistic expression. 

Momma hippo opens her mouth for some veggies while baby munches an apple.

Before jumping on an overnight train to Paris, we skipped over to spend our last day at the Prague Zoo.  

It was AWESOME!  First of all, it's huge!  Second of all, it's beautiful.  And third of all, there were soooo many babies!  Note to self: always visit zoos in the spring when all the baby animals are born!

Sleeping on the ground is a one-month-old baby elephant - the first one to be born in the Prague Zoo. 

The elephants were really cool!

The wild cats were all so beautiful.

Little ones could take a pony ride through the zoo.  If I had come here as a little girl, I know I would have been in heaven peering at the animals from the back of my pony.

The flamingos were just funny.  They make a silly honking noise as the flick their heads nervously back and forth.  

We tried to go to the gorilla house earlier in our visit, but when we arrived, the enclosure was completely empty.  Not an ape to be seen.  We asked a zoo keeper where all the gorillas were and she explained that they were out having their lunch.  

Not wanting to miss the gorillas, we circled back before leaving the zoo hoping they might be back from their luncheon. 

They were!  And I'm so glad we went back so we could see this little cutie hanging out on his momma's back.  Hold on tight little guy!  

The loved the Prague Zoo, but we had to book it back to our apartment in order to pack up and catch our next train to Paris!  The adventure continues! 

Prague Blogue

All aboooooard!  After packing up our Berlin apartment, Fritz and I climbed into a train headed for the Czech Republic.  For my last two weeks in Europe, Fritz has planned a most spectacular adventure in which we will travel by train to Prague, Paris, and Amsterdam before he puts me on a plane headed back to the homeland.  

Let's begin with the colorful winding cobbled streets of Prague that lead from our AirBnB on the Vltava River into the center of Old Town.  

It's only about a five-minute walk from our place to Old Town Square which is surrounded by charming buildings, full of tourists wielding selfie sticks, and overrun by a small army of Segways. 

The Prague Astronomical Clock is an impressive bit of history on display in the square mounted on the wall of Old Town Hall.  It was installed in 1410, making it the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still operating.  It features dials indicating the location of the sun and the moon, a calendar dial showing the month of the year, and figures of the Apostles and a skeleton depicting Death that tourists gather to watch as they move at the top of each hour. 

A few more views of the square.  The beautiful old buildings almost made me feel like I had been transported into the set of Disney's Cinderella. 

For our first meal in Prague, we stumbled on a quiet courtyard with a restaurant serving the local cuisine. 

We learned the "Bohemian Dumplings" are really just thick slices of white bread nestled into an ocean of gravy.  The meal was good and filling.  My pork and sourkrout were full of flavor (and fat), though we decided the only part of the meal that we would have to repeat was the Czech beer.  Fritz was a big fan of the local brew.  

This was the other Czech culinary delight that we sampled a few times... Trdelník, or in English - chimneys!  They consist of dough strips wrapped around a cylinder.  

Cinnamon and sugar are then generously applied to the outside of the dough and they are placed on a spit over high heat until they are golden brown.  

Yummy fillers can then be stuffed into them... Fritz and I chose ice cream.  Very delicious!

Then again, Fritz will tell you I'm not very discerning when it comes to sweets so it's not a big surprise that I was a fan of the chimneys.  I'm just a sugar-loving lady! 

The historic Charles Bridge is a landmark in Prague and a fun way to get from Old Town to the area surrounding Prague Castle.  Construction on the bridge began in 1357 and helped to make Prague very important as a trade route between Eastern and Western Europe. 

The bridge is reserved for foot traffic only, which is probably a good idea considering it's over 650 years old!  Spanning the length of the bridge are various artists and musicians, all trying to appeal to the crossing tourists as they parade from Old Town to Prague Castle. 

This excentric-looking fellow played familiar tunes on crystal glasses.

We didn't want to have our caricatures drawn by one of the dozens of artists lining the bridge so we just paused for a quick Charles Bridge photo. 

A ballet of boats wove in and out of the bridge's supports as they made their way down the river. 

Once on the West bank of the river, Fritz and I worked our way passed pretty canals and more charming buildings as we made our way up toward the Prague Castle situated at the top of the hill. 

Selfie!

The rooftops were equal parts interesting and beautiful with a combination of towers and statues piercing the blue sky. 

The Prague streets were just lovely!

We must have looked funny walking around with our heads pointed to the sky all the time, but we didn't want to miss any of these beautiful buildings. 

The Prague Castle is at the very top of a hill which can be reached by climbing a monster staircase.  It was a nice excuse to stop for a picture every now and again to disguise the fact that we kind of needed to catch our breath.  

The view from the top was well worth the climb.  But when we tried to get into the castle grounds, the line to enter was monstrous!  Due to an event taking place in St. Vitus Cathedral, the church inside the castle walls, there was extra security and restricted access.  Anxious to skip the line, Fritz found us an alternative route. 

He noticed that there seemed to be a backway into the castle and found a pathway leading through a quiet garden. 

The garden turned out to be the castle's moat, called Deer Moat.  This fortification is actually formed by a deep natural gulch that surrounds Prague Castle.  It was given the name "Deer Moat" because during the reign of Rudolf II, it was fenced off and filled with deer so he could hunt. 

One section of the moat had a tunnel that we cut through. 

The route around the back of the castle was a bit of a hike, but we were rewarded with a much shorter line to get into Prague Castle, not to mention the experience of a stroll through the quiet and beautiful park.  

St. Vitus Cathedral is in the center of Prague Castle.  The first version of the church was built in the year 930 by Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. 

The church is so large, I couldn't fit the whole thing into one picture. 

There just wanted enough courtyard to get it all in.  To take this picture, I had to squish myself against the back corner of the courtyard wall that surrounds the church.

Outside the castle, there was a little market of sorts, and artists pounded out iron bells while the scents of smoked pork and roasted potatoes drifted through the air.   

Or you could always just go to Starbucks.  I was happy to see that they at least tried to blend into the scene and traded the signature green awning for a more picturesque balcony. 

Fritz is looking out over a hillside of budding grapevines with the Strahov Monastery in the background. 

We saw several wedding parties prancing around with their entourage of makeup artists and cameramen.  

What the photo doesn't show is that this poor bride had goosebumps all over her body.  It was a chilly day, but sacrifices had to be made.

The Lennon Wall used to be a regular old wall, but since the 1980s, it has been covered with colorful John Lennon-inspired graffiti.  During the communist regime, Czech students would write grievances on the wall and their movement eventually lead to a violent clash with the police in 1988.  The authorities described the students as alcoholics, mentally deranged, sociopathic, and agents of Western capitalism.  This all happened shortly before the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of communism in Eastern Europe. 

"You are beauty of the blossom, how can I express that you are awesome"

Fritz brought me to beautiful, tiered garden on a sunny afternoon.  It was quaint and a little difficult to find, which meant that we could escape the hustle and bustle of tourists for a while, and steal a few romantic moments among the greenery and stone sculptures. 

The garden was built into a hillside so our climb up led to another incredible panoramic view of the red-tiled rooftops.