Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts

Sunday, November 22, 2015

The Jewish Cemetery and The End of Warsaw


On our last full day in Warsaw, Fritz and I got up and checked the weather.  You wouldn't believe the predicted forecast... that's right, cold and dreary.  Ah, something new.  Instead of trying to fight the weather, we decided to match it with our itinerary for the day.  

The Jewish Cemetery was established in 1806 and is one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the world.  Although nearly all of Warsaw was demolished during WWII, the Cemetery remained mostly untouched.  




The Cemetery was overgrown with trees bursting through the middle of the graveyard.  Tangled roots caused gravestones to tip out of alignment.  At one point, Fritz commented that the lines of headstones looked like they were in need of an orthodontist in many places. 


Some of the graves had small rock piles left by visitors. 









 A memorial for all the children who were killed in World War II left visitors weeping. 

Grandma Masha had twenty grandchildren 
Grandma Hana had eleven
only I survived

~Jack Eisner


The Little Smuggler

Through a hole, through a crack or a cranny
Starving yet stubborn and canny
Sneaky and speedy like a cat
I daily risk my youthful neck

And if fate will turn against me 
In that game of life and bread
Do not weep for me mother; do not cry
Are we not all marked to die?

Only one worry besets me
Lying in agony; so nearly dead
Who'll care for you tomorrow
Who'll bring you, dear Mom, a slice of bread

~Henryka Lazowert
Ghetto Warsaw 1941


We left the Cemetery and headed down the street to the Warsaw Uprising Museum.  


The museum commemorates the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 when the Polish Resistance Home Army fought against Nazi forces for 63 days with little outside support.  The Home Army planned their attack as the Soviet Union's Red Army was approaching from the West.  The Home Army was counting on aid from the Red Army, but instead of helping as the Germans were retreating, the Soviet's stopped short of the city allowing the Germans to regroup and defeat the Polish resistance.  It was the largest single military effort taken by any European resistance movement during WWII.  

We concluded our last day in Warsaw by heading to the "hipster" part of town for dinner.  Having skipped lunch, we were nearly starving by 4:30.  I suspect this place is a pretty happenin' spot, but the cool kids don't usually show up for the Early Bird Special on a Friday night.  Fritz and I basically had the place to ourselves.   Mmmmm hipster burgers with a side of micro-greens or whatever they put in the baby food jar!

Warsaw and Jacob

One of Fritz's Warsaw accomplishments was meeting Jacob (you pronounce it Yah-cobe since it's Polish), a 6-foot-5 Polish guy who recently finished his master's in English Philology.  He's an expert on Steven King novels, which was the topic of his master's thesis.  In addition to being extremely well-read when it comes to classic American literature (and Steven King thrillers), he hopes to publish the Polish translation of Nathanial Hawthorn's last untranslated novel.  

We met Jacob for dinner and found him to be one of the most earnest and focused people imaginable.  While Fritz and I were trying to small talk him at the start of dinner, he wanted to jump right into the meat and potatoes of Fritz's project.  Fritz and Jacob were connected because Fritz needed a Polish speaker to help him search through Polish financial archives and then translate them to support his research on communist debt during the Cold War.  Not quite as exciting as The Shinning but Jacob seemed totally motivated to go right to work on the project.  


Fritz and Jacob spent 3 hours together on Thursday morning searching for resources that might be relevant to Fritz's topic.  

I joined the two of them for a morning coffee, but skipped out for more walking and exploring while the weather was nice.  

The Palace of Culture and Science is pictured on the left.  






I made my way back to Old Town since the rain kinda put a damper on my sightseeing experience the day before. 


Can you see me?  I'm over on the right side of the picture. 

You can tell this area is meant just for tourists based on the average "uniform".  When they think no one is looking, the Polish royals take calls on their smartphones. 

No city is complete without its very own Pigeon Man!



Pictured above is the famous mermaid statue.  It's in the central square of Old Town.  When we asked Jacob what kind of traditional Polish gifts we should bring back for our families, he suggested a miniature of the mermaid statue.  Sadly, we never made it back to the souvenir shop to pick one up.  Sorry family, we did not get any of you a Warsaw mermaid paperweight. 

I took this picture because as Fritz pointed out, "the average car driven on the streets of Warsaw, is far nicer than the city itself."  Though I have to say, I think many of the pictures I took capture some rather lovely parts of the city. 

We Saw Warsaw!

Being from the USA really is awesome most of the time, but for many Americans, it can mean a deficit in geographical awareness.  I realize some of us have more than a vague sense of what Europe looks like, and I'm not trying to out anyone, so for everyone's benefit, here is a map of Central Europe so we can all be more informed Americans.  


My geographically-informed fiance brought me to Warsaw, Poland last week.  While he presented at a Cold War conference and did some additional research in the Polish archives, I did what I do best... aimlessly wander around a city.  

I have begun to realize how much I seriously LOVE walking around a novel city.  Skip the subway, pass on the metro, forget the cab.  Walking is the only real way to take in the true rhythm and unique energy of a new place.  I have to say, Warsaw is not exactly beautiful.  It is also highly possible that we got the worst weather week imaginable.  It was cold, dreary, windy and rainy.  But I wasn't going to let some gray skies stop me from learning Warsaw as best I could. 

I also really think that Nike should consider sponsoring me.  I bought a pair of Nike sneakers the first  week we arrived in Germany.  I got them because I had a feeling I was going to be doing a lot of walking and I didn't want to wear my good running shoes all the time.  I figured I'd treat myself to some "fashion" sneakers to rock the streets of Europe.  Pinterest, as well as some initial observations of the German sneaker fashion, indicated that black Nikes were all the rage, so that's what I got.  I have no idea how many miles I have covered since my purchase, but it is definitely a lot! And I predict there will be many more to come.  I've started to brainstorm some advertising slogans for Nike.  Simple things like "Just do it."  There's definitely money to be made with that one.  Or like, "Nike.  For when you're ready to step outside of the gym."  Or maybe, "Nike. Expanding your comfort zone."  I like that last one.  And then, of course, there would be a sweet picture of my feet in my slick Nikes walking up the steps of some awesome European monument.  I just think there is a big marketing potential here that I'd be happy to help them with.  So Nike, if you are reading this, feel free to contact me.  

Ok.  Back to Warsaw.  The first morning it was actually pouring rain outside, so I wrote for a while in a coffee shop until the sky stopped spitting so much.  I'll tell you one thing, if I thought German sounded funny, Polish is even more foreign to me.  There are some frequently used sounds in Polish that when incorporated into a coffee shop din result in a distinct buzzing sound.  "Zzzz djjjjch shhhh chzzzzz chdddjjjj zzzddjjjj."  It sounds kinda like that.  I wonder what a non-English speaking Polish person would think of the din in an English-speaking cafe?

The rain stopped after lunch and I went into city-walker-exploration mode.   I mentioned that Warsaw is not the most beautiful city, and there is an important and unfortunate reason for that.  During World War II, the Nazis basically obliterated the entire city.  It was their intention to wipe Warsaw off the map.  After the war, the communist government rebuilt much of the city and the architecture reflects this.  There is one section of the city called Old Town that was built to look like it would have before the city was destroyed.  It's really just a tourist attraction, but still nice to walk around. 


My first destination was a pretty church down the street from where I had eaten lunch with Fritz before he returned to his conference.  After some heavy reflection on the Paris attacks and the current state of our world, I thought some private meditation in a church might yeild some peace of mind.  It was about 2:30pm on a Monday so I wasn't expecting a service to be taking place, but when I stepped into the sanctuary, the pews were packed with people led in worship.  I assumed a seat in the last row and followed along as the congregation stood and sat and sang.  I didn't understand anything being said as the service was entirely in Polish, but growing up in a Lutheran church with a fairly traditional liturgy made it easy to understand the structure of the service even if I didn't know which Bible verses were being read.  I listened as the Lord's Prayer was sung in Polish and when it came time to share the peace, I realized how little language really matters.  Peace is something that you share with your heart, not your words. 

Palace of Culture and Science

The Palace of Culture and Science is a massive building in the middle of Warsaw.  It was built in 1955 and is the tallest building in all of Poland.  I used it as a point of reference for all of my city wanderings.  I didn't go in it, but as the sun set on our first day in the city, the Palace was lookin' pretty in purple.  

The second day in Warsaw was also a cold and dreary one.  The weather forecast indicated that the rain wasn't supposed to start until 2pm, which gave me at least 4 hours to get to Old Town and explore for a while.  I was coming from the city center with Old Town to the north along the river, so it was a little less than a 2-mile walk.  On my way, I took pictures to capture the world around me. 





I learned that Warsaw is really big on sculptures.  They are all over the city.  I stopped taking pictures of them after a while, but I like the one of Copernicus.  


I was only a few blocks away from Old Town when I felt the first rain drops.  It was only 12:30, but I guess the rain was going to come early.  Naturally, I did NOT have an umbrella.  In a matter of minutes, the sky got dark and it went from a light drizzle to pouring rain.  


I ducked into the nearest pierogi restaurant where I decided to wait out the storm over a lunch of the local cuizine.  

Now I admittedly have never looked at the nutrition facts for pierogis, but if you know anything about the ingredients, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to conclude that a plate of pierogis is probably not the healthiest meal.  Which is why the menu totally cracked me up!  This place was trying so hard to sell you on the nutritional benefits of their pierogis.  

"...Source of potassium, calcium and vitamin C.  Helps keep the proper heart rhythm.  Russian-style dumplings are recommended for lovers."

For lovers?  Are you trying to tell me pierogis are a lesser known aphrodisiac?  I'm learning so much on this European adventure!

Hello heart-rhythm-helper pierogis.  Are those bacon bits I see? Why yes, indeed they are.  The secret to all healthy hearts. 

By the time I was done with lunch, the rain had settled back down to a drizzle, so I bought an umbrella for 30 zloties, the Polish currency, and headed for Old Town.  


The streets were pretty deserted with the exception of a few head-strong tourists who were determined to see the sights in rain or shine.  


It didn't take me long to realize it wasn't very fun to walk around in the cold rain.  My shoes were sopping wet from stepping in unavoidable puddles.  Additionally, the wind had picked up, which meant that I spent more time battling with my new umbrella than actually using it to stay dry. 


I did witness several umbrella-walker accidents.  In an attempt to block the rain that was flying in sideways, people were holding their umbrellas in front of their faces, completely obstructing their view.  I tried not to laugh too hard as people buried behind umbrellas collided straight into one another.   

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Paris and Finding the Stillpoint


We heard about the terrorist attacks on Friday night after a dinner with the Bulgarian couple who lives below us.  We spent the rest of the evening watching the news on both our German tv and our English computers as the death count rose. 

Why does this happen?  What is wrong with our world?  How can humans have so much hate in their hearts?  And when, for Heaven's sake, when can the healing begin?  I realize there will never be clear answers to these questions, but that doesn't prevent me from asking them.  Two days before the attack I learned that the Pope has declared 2016 a Holy Year: A Year of Mercy.  The polarity of daily events is so extreme, it is almost unfathomable.  

Saturday after the attack was a somber day for the people of Frankfurt.  The reality of how small the world has become was apparent as we sat in a Turkish Döner restaurant in the middle of Frankfurt, Germany watching the news about Paris, France broadcasted in Turkish.  

Being so close, relatively, to France, people from the US have asked me if I am scared.  I'm not scared.  At least not right now.  I'm just sad.  I seems to me that the conflict in the Middle East is far more complicated than it can sometimes be made to seem.  There is a long history of wrong, after wrong, after wrong coming from all directions causing blurs of gray in a time when people want so badly to see everything in black and white.  I feel fortunate to have a very intelligent and well informed historian who doesn't mind explaining the complicated Middle Eastern past to me whenever I have questions.  Unsure of how to make sense of it, all I can do is reach out to people who are smarter and wiser than me.  

Old, wrong ideas do not give up without a fight. They grow more hysterical as they sense their own imminent death. 

This thought from one of my wise friends provides me with a fragile mix of both fear and comfort.  Peace could be just around the corner; if only it wasn't such a dark and dangerous corner.  I fear for the thousands of refugees who have given everything they have to escape the horror of their homeland.  Will their fellow humans embrace them and shelter them?  Or will the attacks in Paris evoke too much fear causing more walls to be erected, blocking the people who are most in need?   And can I blame people for being afraid?

In this time of radical action and reaction, I will try to follow the advice of a teacher and friend who told me to find the stillpoint of awareness in the midst of the surrounding chaos; to hold it all in my heart without quick reaction.  To find peace and love within myself and allow it to flow outward to the world around me and hope that it will travel far enough.  

On Monday, Fritz and I flew from Frankfurt to Warsaw by way of Paris.  We booked the trip to Warsaw, Poland several weeks ago and took the cheaper option by flying out of the larger French hub.  It's hard to believe that our lives have taken us straight to the heart of the current suffering. 

A view of France from the sky


We got off the plane and began to make our way through the airport.  The hallways were kind of winding but well marked.  We were looking for our terminal while simultaneously searching for a bathroom.  An elderly French woman was very quick to point us in the right direction identifying the men's room and the direction of the terminal.  The signs were pretty clear and we probably would have been fine without her help, but she was still very eager to explain the airport to us.  Fritz went into the restroom while I waited outside with our bags.  It seemed that the French woman was also waiting for someone in the bathroom.   

I dropped my gaze as I waited, but the French woman, in her French accent, had more to say to me.  

"We all have to look after one another.  It is better to communicate and talk with each other.  It doesn't help to think 'I am alone in this world.'  Not anymore." 

"You're right," was all I could manage to say back to her as we held each other with our eyes for a few long seconds.  The depth of sorrow in her eyes was crippling.  Our connection was broken when her husband came out of the bathroom and the French couple walked out of sight.  Those were the first words I heard in Paris, France.  I cried when I recounted her words to Fritz. 


French newspapers available for free in the airport