Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Birthday Photography and Life

Photo by Karin

Three years ago, my thoughtful fiancée gave me an awesome Christmas present: a Fujifilm X20 camera.  Basically, it has been glued to my side since he gave it to me and it is what I have been using to take all of our Germany Adventure photos.

It's awesome because it's light and little, but the optics are really good and it has all the manual options that a huge, heavy SLR (single lens reflex) camera would have.  Since I got the camera, I've been learning by trial-and-error how to use the manual settings as well as some of the other fun features (like when I take double exposures).  Still, my photography knowledge was a random hodge-podge of information acquired by reading the camera manual and soaking up as much information as possible  from my wise photographer friends.

Once again, my thoughtful fiancée struck with yet another gift that keeps on giving... for my 30th birthday he enrolled me in a Photography Workshop where I could formally learn the ins and outs of photography.  


We met on a Sunday morning at a funky cafe in East Berlin.  You can see the cafe ceiling in the picture above.  


Here Paul spent 3 hours breaking down the elements of exposure and how to control them using our respective cameras.  There were 6 people in our aspiring crew and we represented at least 5 different countries.  I was the only American in the group.  I was also the one asking most of the questions.  I'm not sure if these two factors have anything to do with one another, but hopefully I didn't come off as being too obnoxious with my inquisitive nature.  I just wanted to learn!

Paul was a wealth of knowledge touching on the mechanics of photography as well as artistic composition, and he even discussed the ethics of being a photographer.  Considering my current lifestyle, it was good to hear about the ethics of "street photography" and how to approach a stranger if you are hoping to take their portrait.  I'm not sure if I have the nerve to approach a stranger on the streets of Berlin, but at least now I know how to do it politely.  


After our instructional period, Paul led us out to the streets where we were able to practice everything.  We paired up and Karin from Austria, pictured above, became my partner.  We practiced taking each other's portraits using a shallow depth of field.  This is what happens when you make your subject very clear and sharp while the background is blurred out.  It's one of my favorite photography techniques.  I think it makes photos so interesting and portraits so beautiful!

Photo by Karin

Karin took this one of me.  I think she made me laugh about something but I don't remember what exactly. 


Here is another fellow in my class.  


Peace Karin!


We also experimented with shutter speed, which has to do with how long the digital sensor (or the film in the old days) is exposed to the light.  If you leave the shutter open for a long time, it would cause a photo of a moving figured to look very blurry.  So if you have someone jumping, like Paul here, you want the shutter to be open for a very short period of time.  


Paul's final advice to us, so that we might all become better photographers, was simply to get up and go outside.  "Go take pictures," he said.  You are never going to get that great photo if you weren't there to take it.  Carpe Photo 'em!  And really, isn't that how we should live our lives every day?  I'm glad I have my little Fujifilm to push me to experience the world around me and to give me an excuse to leave the couch and soak up my surroundings. But I hope I never forget that living my life is a choice I get to make every morning when I wake up, and I don't always need a camera to do it.  I will turn 30 years old this evening at exactly 6:34 and 19 seconds.  That isn't a ton of years, but it is long enough to look back and feel proud of all the living I have done so far and feel excited about all the living I have yet to do!  


I stood and watched this street performer sing "Stand By Me" under a bridge at a bustling intersection in East Berlin.  Thanks to my camera and all the thoughtful gifts that Fritz has given me, I will always have this image to help me remember the feelings that filled me on this day as well as the commitment I have made to live every day of my life on purpose.  

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Cyber Apple Cake Baking with Irma


We did it again!  You might remember the last time Irma and I baked together over skype, but if you missed it, check out the time we baked pinwheels!

Just to remind you, Irma is my very dear friend whom I met when we both lived in the US.  Now Irma lives in Austria with her family.  This is lovely because it means we are in the same timezone unlike everyone else in my life.  

We skype pretty often and on this day, we decided to make an apple cake after I requested a dessert that could be made in a springform pan.  Our kitchen came equipt with a springform pan along with many other advanced cooking tools.  

Irma picked the recipe and provided all the instructions.  And now I shall pass it on to you.  

It's quite simple really.  


Oven Temp: 350° F

Ingredients: 
4-5 eggs (separated)
4 apples
1 Cup sugar
1 Cup flour
cinnamon and sugar topping
butter for greasing your springform pan


Start out by separating your eggs so the yokes are in one bowl, and the whites are in a medium-sized mixing bowl. 

Whisk the whites until they begin to make soft peaks- like if you have ever made a meringue.  I haven't personally, but I saw my mom do it once.  Egg yokes never looked so appetizing.  But don't eat the stuff... I promise it doesn't taste as good as it looks.  Honestly. 

Add your cup of sugar and keep whisking until the egg white peaks are a bit firmer than before. 


Gently and briefly whisk in the yokes.  The meringue will flatten a little but not too much. 


Add in your one cup of sifted flour.  As you can see, I don't have a real measuring cup since the Germans use the metric system, but this approximate cup should be close enough.  And isn't that little metal sifter just the cutest?  Very carefully fold in the flour.  You don't want to take all the air out of your fluffy meringue.  

When it is just mixed, dump that stuff in your greased pan.  Try not to touch it too much.  Every time you touch it, you take some of the air out of it.  Irma was very clear on this. 

Now it's time to chop your apples and artfully display them on top of the fluffy batter.  


Once that's done, sprinkle your cinnamon and sugar mixture over the top of the apples. 

Put it in the oven for about 30 minutes.  You'll know it's done when the cake feels a bit springy if you gently push down on the apples in the middle.  


Tah-dah!  A beautiful apple cake!  

You can remove the outer part of the pan after it cools.


Let's thank our host, Chef Irma!  

Thank you Irma!  Your culinary expertise continues to impress and satisfy the mouths of many!


Now eat that tasty little morsel! 

Sunday Coffee and Museums


Berlin seems to be a Mecca for hipster coffee shops... and Fritz and I are determined to try them all.  We sampled caffeinated beverages from The Barn last Sunday.  

You know it's hipster when they serve imported raw organic cane sugar out of a heavy stone trough on the counter next to the barista.  If you are wondering if there is sugar on the tables, the answer is certainly not.  How else would the barista give you a stern look of equal parts judgement and disgust as you sheepishly spoon in one, two, three heaping scoops of sugar?  It doesn't help that there is a sign on the sugar trough suggesting that you taste the beverage before adding sugar since they use fancy-pants imported organic milk that tends to naturally add some sweetness to your latte macchiato.  Yeah ok.  Tasted it.  Delicious Mr. Barista.  Now can I add my sugar without your evil eyes glaring at me?  


It was very tasty coffee.  Fritz consumed his coffee as it was intended... without any sugar to taint the purity of the perfectly roasted beans.  


We would have liked to stay and read for longer, but space was limited and we didn't want to hog all the seats once we had drained our mugs.  


So we sauntered through the gallery district of Berlin until we came to Museum Island.  It actually is a real island and home to 5 internationally significant museums.  Because everyone was off work on Sunday, the lines were pretty long.  


We went to the Altes Museum which didn't have much of a line.  It was interesting and had some really old stuff! 



I took this picture of Fritz after he had mistakenly started up a conversation with a random young woman dressed in black thinking she was me.  He saw her looking at her phone so he asked what she was doing.  A second later he realized his mistake.  Unfortunately, she thought he was genuinely interested and started asking him for directions or advice on how to find some other museums in the area.  15 minutes after working his way out of the conversation he was still blushing.  


The Berlin Cathedral is standing behind me.  We didn't get a chance to go inside.  That will have to be another trip.  It certainly was a beautiful area to walk around!

The Definition of "Coincidence"

Coincidence: noun 1. a remarkable concurrence of events or circumstances without apparent causal connection.

And remarkable is certainly what it was.  Please allow me to explain. 

Upon returning to Berlin, I knew Fritz would be spending most of the weekdays buried under documents in the archives.  Therefore, I would need to find my own purpose and assume responsibility for filling my own schedule during our 4 months here.  Entertaining myself has never been an issue for me.  Still, I aspire to be very intentional about how I execute each day in this lovely city.  Living life "on purpose" has always been important to me.  While moving to a foreign city can make intentional living a little easier, it still takes a conscious effort to stay fully engaged, especially since I am not allowed to get a job while we are here.  In order to accomplish this purposeful living, I set two priorities for myself.  

1.  Join a pottery studio.
2. Attend yoga classes 2-4 times a week.  

As my third day in Berlin began, Fritz and I initiated the search for a pottery studio.  Actually, I really should say that Fritz initiated the search while I slept off my jet-lag.  We assumed that most of the Berlin studios would have websites in German, but after he had spent over an hour using his German vocabulary and reading skills, he hadn't gotten very far.  At this point, I woke up refreshed and ready, fired up my own computer and entered "Pottery Studios Berlin" into the search bar. 

Feuer Zeug Keramik popped up as the first hit.  The website indicated that they have a pottery shop, they offer classes, they seem to have available studio space for experienced potters, and they speak English.  Conveniently, the studio is located one neighborhood over from our flat.  Well that was easy!  I wasted no time in emailing Cordula, the owner of Feuer Zeug Keramik, explained my desire to join a studio and wondered if I could stop by to meet her.   

I must have refreshed my inbox one hundred times in the 24 hours that followed.  Waiting for a response is always the hardest part.  Fritz had to remind me that if she owns a pottery studio, she probably isn't doing a ton of desk work and checking her email every 10 minutes.  Hands dripping with wet clay don't mix well with electronics.  He had a point.  So I had to be patient. 

The next afternoon, I opened my email and discovered the message I had been waiting for!  Cordula indicated that I was welcome to stop by the shop the next day around noon.  

I woke up that Thursday morning totally jazzed and ready to start my Berlin life.  With the first of my two Berlin priorities in motion, I decided to initiate the second; finding a yoga studio.  With any luck, I thought I might just be able to follow my pottery meeting with a zen-tastic yoga class!

Again, I returned to my laptop and typed in "cheep yoga Berlin English."  I actually even spelled cheap incorrectly.  Luckily Google doesn't discriminate against poor spellers.  I was a little worried that finding yoga in English would be tricky.  I wasn't totally opposed to German yoga, but so much of the experience comes from the meditation and dialogue a good teacher provides in combination with the physical challenge of the class. 

Unsurprisingly, Berlin is LOADED with yoga studios.  My search revealed several blogs where other young yogis had provided lists of studios that had English-speaking instructors, as well as classes that weren't too expensive.  I clicked on one of the top hits.  Yellow Yoga.  The website was inviting and clearly met all of my requirements.  This was going well.  

Now the location.  Berlin is a huge city with more yoga studios than Vietnamese restaurants (which turns out to be quite a lot!).  If this yoga studio was even in the same quadrant of the city, I would have considered myself very lucky.  Looking at the website, I found Yellow Yoga had two locations, one of which was in the very same neighborhood as my pottery studio.  How perfect!  And you won't believe me when I tell you it gets better than that.  

I had already plugged in walking directions from my flat to pottery.  It would take 1 hour and 4 minutes to walk there from my home.  I could also take public transportation and be there in 20 minutes, but it was a beautiful day and I thought the walk would be a great way to get a sense of my neighborhood.  

I switched back to Yellow Yoga's website to identify the address of the studio.  For a moment, I thought my computer was playing tricks on me.  I rubbed my eyes and refocused on the address.  It was EXACTLY the same as the pottery studio.  Was this a mistake?  

Apparently not.  Somehow, my random search for two completely unrelated activities in a huge city was bringing me to the exact same point on the map.  If this isn't the definition of a coincidence, I don't know what is.  

Of course, I still had to seal the deal with Cordula at Feuer Zeug Keramik.  She hadn't accepted me yet.  

Cordula said I could come anytime between 12 and 5pm, so I started my walk at 11am.  


Naturally I took pictures along the way.  The day was perfect for walking and discovering Berlin.  For example, I learned that Berliners love to make pole-warmers as you can see above.  Someone took a lot of care in knitting this multicolored, cozy pole-warmer.  If you look closely, you might even notice that decorative buttons have been added for extra pizazz. 


The bright Berlin buildings looked quite cheery under the blue sky. 


I must have passed 15 playgrounds on my walk today.  Fritz told me that Germany has an aging population, but Berlin seems to be crawling with young families.  And therefore, loaded with playgrounds like the one in front of this church. 


I crossed over a lovely river.  Many of the Berlin sidewalks are made from cobblestones or bricks.  Here the street is also nicely cobbled.    


There were a bunch of people taking pictures on this bridge. 


When I looked over the other side of it, I saw that it was loaded with swans!


For a short time, I was strolling along the canal.  I was impressed by the apartments on the opposite side.  


The street art and murals of Berlin continue to catch my attention.  Some of them are so vibrant!


I was almost sorry to reach my destination after such a  lovely walk, but at last, I had reached Feuer Zeug Keramik.  Cordula was waiting for me inside.  It was a cute shop with lovely pottery on display and two potter's wheels in the middle of the showroom.  Cordula and I talked for a few minutes and I explained that I'd be living in Berlin for the next 4 months.  I was very interested in spending as much time working on the wheel as possible. More than that, I wanted to be a part of a studio where I could help with upkeep; carry out the laborious and often dreaded tasks of recycling clay and mixing chemicals for glazes.  "Sign me up for mopping floors," I told Cordula.  Really, I'd do just about anything to be a part of a studio.  

"I'm not really in a position to pay anyone," she said.  I quickly assured her that I was not looking for a job.  She told me she would think about it seeing as the studio was quite small and the space was limited.  In the meantime, she invited me to check out her other studio space that has a few more wheels.  It's where she teaches her pottery classes.  

"It's only about a 20-minute walk from here.  It's in the back of a wine shop that my brother owns.  He opens at 2 today and will let you see the studio if you want to check it out.  Just tell him I sent you."  Of course I wanted to see it!  She gave me the address and we arranged to meet again later in the week after she had some time to think about whether she might have a place for me in the studio.  

With my pottery goals in motion, I checked the schedule for Yellow Yoga.  An "advanced beginners" class was starting soon so I headed to the back of the building and up the stairwell to yoga.  


Appropriately, an open yellow door with a meditating buddha statue marked the entrance to a bright open room.  The signs on the door and floor indicated that visitors should remove their shoes and put them on the rack before entering the studio. 


That class was perfect.  Equal parts relaxing and refreshing.  If I didn't already have good energy flowing through my body, I did now.  We ended the class with a love meditation, during which we were invited to focus our attention on sending loving energy out into the world.  I try to do this regularly, but it helps to be reminded sometimes and it seems more powerful when I'm doing it with a group.  After the traditional exchange of "Namaste," my fellow yogis and I quietly shuffled out of the studio. 

Time to find the wine shop.  


Here I met Constantine, Cordula's brother.  He was lovely and happy to show me the secret studio in the back.  It was glorious in that it looked exactly like a pottery studio.  Potter's tools were neatly stacked on a shelf, the kiln was nestled in the back corner of the room, and five wheels sat in the middle of the floor, throbbing with potential if only the right potter would sit down and set them spinning.  

I thanked Constantine for the tour and asked if he could recommend a white wine to go with a vegetarian meal.  Conveniently, perhaps even coincidentally, I was planning on cooking a meal when I got home with a recipe that called for 2 tablespoons of white wine.  Funny how the day brought me directly to a wine shop, don't you think?  Will the coincidences never cease?  

Constantine was quick to select a lovely German riesling.  After paying him, I packed the wine away in my bag and started home.  

I'll share a few more photos before closing out this post. 


You might have noticed that in Berlin, bikes are parked almost everywhere.  


Similarly, you don't have to look far to find a little graffiti... or a lot of graffiti.  Here is a Berlin phone booth.  I haven't ever seen anyone using one, but they are still scattered around the city. 


Colorful children's art is also scattered here and there. 


Basically, if there is something to paint, it will be painted.  

Well, that about sums up my start to Berlin life.  I promise there will be more to come soon on how the happenings of this serendipitous day played out in the days that followed. 

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Ich bin ein Berliner

After a wonderful Christmas season in the US with our families, Fritz and I are back in Berlin, Germany and it is SWEET!  

We are subletting this super cool flat that looks like it is right off the set of Mad Men.  It's owned by a  very hip couple who is taking a 5-month sabbatical in South America, as one does.  The surrounding neighborhood is incredible with more eateries, coffee shops, markets, bookstores and shopping than anyone could possibly want.  

AND, we actually live 2 blocks from David Bowie's old flat.  


No joke.  The Berliners love Bowie and people are still dropping flowers and lighting candles as they mourn his recent death.  



Normal people live in this building, so every day they have to wade through the wilted, frozen roses in order to exit their apartment.  As a matter of fact, the fellow we are subletting from knows a girl who lives there.  She happens to be dating his son!  


To give you a sense of where we live, here is a map of Berlin.  It's a huge city and is the capital of Germany.   It has a rich history, probably the most notable recent event took place in 1989 when the Berlin Wall separating East Germany and West Germany since 1961 was torn down and with it, communism in Germany was brought to an end.  The country was reunited.  Fritz and I live in Schöneberg (pronounced shoe-nah-berg... sort of), which is in the middle of the city toward the south.  This neighborhood used to be part of West Germany, which was not the part controlled by the communist party.  There is a noticeable difference in architecture, among other things, if you hop over to the old East German neighborhoods.  


Here's a snapshot of our street looking to the right after exiting our front door.  We live on the edge of a quieter residential area and a bustling commercial area.  



The reason we are here in Berlin is because it is the home of the Bundesarchiv- the Federal Archive.  The records inside are extremely important to Fritz's research and since East Germany does not exist anymore, access to the records are not restricted.  Fritz can see it all!  This was one of the challenges he ran into in Frankfurt since private banks and the archives of the current German government are a bit protective of their files.  


There it is.  He is going to be spending A LOT of time in that white building. 


The ornate door handles on the entrance to the Rathaus Schöneberg.

One of the obligatory steps involved in moving to Berlin is registering our home.  We had to do this in Frankfurt too.  It's a magical opportunity to stand in line and experience the German bureaucratic system.  Or not, as the case may be.  Twice we attempted to register at the Rathaus Schöneberg, the city hall of our neighborhood.  It's a beautiful edifice and the historic location where President John F. Kennedy gave the famous speech in which he said, "Ich bin ein Berliner"- I am a Berliner.   In our first attempt to register,  we waited in line for about an hour until Fritz went and asked if we would actually be able to register today.  After he was told they were only taking people with appointments, we left.  For our second attempt, Fritz walked over at 7am in order to be the first in line when the Rathaus opened at 8.  He arrived to find 15 people already waiting.  When the doors opened, a Rathaus administrator told Fritz that, once again, they were already out of numbers for people without an appointment.  You might be wondering why we didn't just make an appointment.  Well we tried that too.  The earliest appointment was not until mid-March and we are technically required to register within 2 weeks of moving.  

So Monday morning, we decided to try our luck at an alternative building 30 minutes away.  We thought maybe there would be shorter lines and better luck getting a number if we tried a small establishment.  


No, the Bürgerbüro is not the place to pick up a quarter-pounder with cheese and a Diet Coke.  It means civil office.  Fritz and I arrived at 7:25am, and this time, we were the first pair in line.  When the doors opened at 8, we had no trouble getting a number.  By 9:30 we had successfully registered our residence!  


We've been doing plenty of fun things too.  It's not all archives and bureaucratic line-standing.  My first weekend there, we went to the Jewish Museum.  


Fallen Leaves is an installation in the "Memory Void."  The artist, Menashe Kadishman, has dedicated his work to all the victims of violence and war.  Visitors are invited to walk on the faces and listen to the clanging and rattling as the metal sheets crash into one another.  


We have also spent time just walking around the city whenever we can.  Sometimes we have a destination, but sometimes we just walk.  


One very obvious characteristic of Berlin is the presence of many many murals painted on buildings all over the city.  


I think I am going to have to dedicate an entire post to some of the murals I find.  Or perhaps I'll just weave them into posts as I go.  

Charmed


In an email exchange, a friend said to me, "You live a charmed life."  And she is right!  Sure, part of the charm comes from my perspective, my outlook, my optimism.  

I passed this window on a walk through neighborhood close by.  It means "optimists".

But part of it really is just that good things happen to me.  Good things happen to me all the time.  Maybe it's coincidence, maybe it's luck, maybe the stars frequently align in my favor, maybe someone somewhere is looking out for me, maybe the energy of the Earth just decided I deserve a good life... I don't know.  

But somehow, I ended up randomly catching the eye of a tall guy in a bar on a cold, snowy night in Ithaca, NY.  And almost exactly 3 years later, he has filled my life with friendship and adventure and wisdom and love as we share our days in Berlin, Germany where we have an incredible flat in a fabulous neighborhood.  Every day, we wake up and make more memories together.  We have our separate projects too, and we each have been building ourselves as individuals while appreciating each other's strengths and growth.  

Two years ago, I woke up in the middle of the night because Fritz was talking in his sleep.  He mumbled a few really random sentences about debt and international trade, but then he said, "All things will come together."  I can't begin to image what he was dreaming about, but I will say that every day, little by little, all things have come together.  Somehow things have just always worked out in a most beautiful way. 

I don't say all this to be boastful.  I say it because I hope with all my heart, I will always have the ability to reflect on my life and be this incredibly grateful for all the "charms" that always seem to fall at my feet.  My friend Irma has a chalkboard in her bathroom.  On it, she has written, "Grateful = Happy."  I hope I always remember that and make the most of all the good fortune that comes my way.